Learning to use a digital SLR camera with manual mode
In developed countries many people are switching to digital SLR cameras because they really care about the quality of the photography, that in Indonesia there are still many people think that only the DSLR camera for people who are professionals, who can tamper with the camera , therefore in this article I want to share the experience of using DSLR camera mode using the manual method.
The first that needs to be studied are the specifications of the lens, I take the example kitnya Canon 350D lens is the EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 USM.
What is EF-S?
EF-S lenses can only be used on APS-C camera Canon 350D which one price is much cheaper than the EF lenses in use for 35 mm cameras like the Canon Full Frame 5D or 1D. Actually own EF lenses can also be used on APS-C camera, but any reduction in image terms cool crop factor. For details see in my other articles or can be read on wikipedia once, this link APS-C and EF-S
What is 18-55?
This term is the term 'focal length' abbreviated FL FL if its 18 mm mean angle view (zoom) wide that is able to photograph the scenery or group photo, the higher the value of FL was more narrow point of view, 55 mm in my opinion quite narrow right for portrait photos . If you want more narrow is usually 70 mm or more, while for the more able to try the 11mm width, 18 mm but I feel I have pretty wide. All depends on the needs.
What is 18-55mm f/3.5 - 5.6 banality we call the aperture / diaphragm term is the term 'aperture'
Consider the numbers f/2.8, 5.6, 11 in the picture below, there may be people who think that 2.8 <22 then it should have small openings 2.8 and 22 large openings. That the mind is wrong, the actual intention of writing f/2.8 and f/11 = 1/2.8 = 1 / 11, so in a matter of mathematics 1/2.8> 1 / 11 which means the smaller the f number the greater the opening who we would call large openings , whereas if its f-number the greater the smaller the opening instead.
In everyday life, sometimes there are people who say 'try to use a small f' and there's also say 'try to use large aperture', both have the same meaning, so do not get confused, use one as your own reference, if I personally prefer to use the word large aperture / small openings.
So the question of the rate of 3.5 mm on Canon 350D kit lens is the maximum number of the largest aperture at 18mm focal length, it is not possible if you want dg FL 18 mm aperture 2.8 (a larger aperture) but if a smaller aperture such as 5.6 to 22 can still , depending on the spec of his camera. Vice versa mean number 5.6 on the maximum lens aperture is biggest at 55mm focal length, if you want a 55mm aperture 3.5 on FL was not possible. If for example you have a lens EF 24-70 f/2.8L USM, this means starting FL 24-70 could use f/2.8, then it is for a lens like this exorbitant price, even more than the price of Canon 350D body.
Now I want to explain a little about who had the image above. Consider first who left image, the camera is assumed in writing or pictures F/2.8 aperture. What if the lens is its value the smaller the f-like 1.4 or 2.8 fixed is always expensive, there are many factors that make the lenses they will be expensive, but who need to know the value of f was as small as f/2.8, who objects at the point of focus is much more sharp, detail than f/5.6, and for the background is also much more blurry than f/5.6.
While in the picture into two, the object is still sharp but not as sharp as the first, the background is also not too blur And the last one of all sharp objects but not as sharp as the second and first, usually in addition to using f/11 can also try f / 8.
II. ISO Things to 2 who need to know is ISO. ISO same word with the ASA as in a manual camera that uses roll film. Just who you should know, the lower the ISO number like 100, the smaller the level of light sensitivity maksutnya when photographing indoors rather remang2 using ISO 100 (low) then the result will be dark, but see the need because sometimes intentionally to get the results you dramatic, usually when I use ISO 100 when the outdoor and sunny weather. If such pictures of myself in the room, I use ISO 200 is also sometimes 400, for 800 and 1600 are very rare, depending on needs.
III. Shutter
Things to 3 is the shutter, our language is the shutter speed. understanding the length of time the shutter is open aperture, maksutnya way, in manual mode when you set the aperture 5.6 and shutternya 1oo, when you press the shutter button full (click), will open the aperture size of 1/5.6 like the picture above for a 1 / 100 sec.
For existing facilities 350D camera bulb, this maksutnya aperturenya long exposure time is determined by our own, for example you set aperture and 5.6 shutternya bulb, in the 350D when you press the click is full, do not release the button, hold / hold as long as you want to say 20 seconds and then release , the result must be destroyed because of the rather large f/5.6 and 20 seconds instead of reply brief time. But just try at night on the streets who photographed building lots of cars passing by, then set f/22 and shutternya bulb, then click and hold for 20 seconds, the result may still be good, lampu2 cars on highways such as look garis2 follow the path , but with a note passing car which few, if many jgn 20 seconds, too long. What if such a high shutter 1 / 250, just try looking object waterfall / fountain / easiest tap water, which can be the first to use a low shutter bulb, 10 ", 5" and who both 1 / 200, the results of the first water was visible ngalir keep and who to look like the second water stop. Why so? because 1 / 250 is a very quick time so that it can freeze an object, while the 5 "adl long time, the camera sensor to take images continuously for 5 seconds as a result seemed to be moving live images. Both are good sama2 depending on the situation, conditions, and its use.low shutter
IV. Flash
If the outdoors and the sunny weather may flash is not needed except for maybe the object exposed to the shadow of trees, leaves, hats, etc. The new flash can be used as fill in, can also be used when the light source is behind the object kecuai if you want to photograph a silhouette.
If the internal flash in the room could have been required, for the 350D equipped with light metering point to know before photographed if later results are over-expose (too light) or under expose (too dark). But if I personally rather guns that confident with meteringnya 350D guns and also I rather liked the image that immediately mepakai direct flash. for more details I can see in some other article about flash.
Manual ModeOK, now I want to discuss about using the manual mode on the Canon 350D, this indeed can we learn through the manuals but still sometimes confused too. I try to explain this to use my own version, hopefully aja guns more confused:)anim_hb_prob_iso
image from dpreview.com
Assumption position in FL 18 mm lens, then select manual mode and immediately set the ISO, the 350D body there are shortcut buttons for ISO in the form of arrows. eg SKG your position in the room with enough bright light conditions just read is still unclear. select ISO 200.
topcontrols1 Press Av / FE lock (such as GMB above) and hold (hold) and then scroll to the left until the largest aperture 3.5 for 350D kit lens, figure 3.5 appears on the LCD screen, this shows the aperture or f
Next select the scroll buttons to specify the shutter, try to scroll to the right / left until the show number 100 which means shutternya 1 / 100 sec.
viewfinderview1 If so, try metering the room, how to shoot one of the objects kira2 camera 2 meters distance from the object, later on in the viewfinder (peep window) to the right of figure 3.5 there is exposure aperture comp. / level (GMB above) below the -2, maksutnya condition who only look in the viewfinder under two stops, so if you clik the results are certainly very dark even possibly guns look, so try to scroll to the left to change the value shutternya, scroll until the sign is not ngeblink even if you can scroll up arrow to the right leads to numbers 0, which means not under and not over, and then click, but watch out maybe shutternya showed minimal numbers such as 0.3 "means when you press full click, within 0.3 seconds if you can not shake hands or vibrating, because the picture can be messy, so there lenses are given the facility IS (image stabilizer) function to reduce vibration in the hand and there is also a big lens like f/2.8 opening so that the condition does not need to be a bit dark for as long as it shutternya.
How the results are not good enough? but because shutternya little longer possible if the zoom review the picture a little shake, try raising the ISO to be 400, meaning that the ISO's remember, the higher the ISO the more light sensitive. Then look in the viewfinder arrow ngeblink again but definitely more than 0, either over 1 stop or 2 stop, try to reduce the shutternya reached the point 0, the possibility can shutternya number 5, substantially faster than before (0.3 "). then clik, compare the results, in terms of just rocking still the same color may be reduced but given the added noisenya the higher the ISO the more noise.
There may be questions so as not to shake your dipikiran shutternya be how, if you ask my personal experience, when to photograph objects who do not move 1 / 60 enough, but if the picture org adult groups such as images can be 1 / 80, if anak2 who like to move a light, for example, shake head, hands can use 1 / 100 but if until loncat2, l/125 can run even more. But this should not be used as a benchmark, because there are also pictures of org to run with a speed / low shutter so that the result looks alive.
How about setting aperturenya, I usually use the widest aperture reply except if it wanted a bright background can use f / 8 or f/5.6 backg guns are too blurry, but if we are using f / 8, shutternya hrs low / slow, for example, fear of rocking can outsmart use the flash in full force, who would use an external flash, as there are manual settings can be specified alone power light.
How? kira2 easy to understand my discussion? Now take a look at them again from the metering space but using the internal flash, compare the results with without flash. If you have an external flash, try on the bounce, the result is also different, be better, according to my tables, because not everyone got the same response to a work.
So the conclusion to use the manual mode takes time to keep trying, anyway, who need to be considered just a shutter, f, and the ISO, flash (better external flash), for others not yet, understand that 4 kinds, over time become accustomed, so enough with the look at the situation room will be able kira2 ISO number, how many openings, shutter how. If you just rely on auto mode I think the challenge is less.
Actually there are many more to be learned such as metering mode, AWB, Histogram, how to read MTF-chart etc.. But I think it is better to learn basics first, then learn another pelan2. If there was time I wrote we go, maybe if my explanation is there is wrong, please forgive, because I myself can say a beginner and still need lots of input from you lovers of photography. Thanks
