 | Maybe these tips are there that seem ancient, oldies and less "revolutionized" but maybe this is the basic tips that can be used at all times, especially for those who want to start studying landscape Photography. From the tips below will also mention some other things, such as the Rule of the Third, Hyperfocal distance, etc. are only briefly described krn could become a topic of its own. Hopefully useful. | |||||
1. Maximize Depth of Field (DoF) An approach to the normal concept of a landscape photography is "sharply from toe to the end of horizon". The basic concept of the theory of "oldies" We agreed that an appropriate landscape as much as possible all parts of the photo is the focus (sharp). To get the sharpness wide or with other words the field of depth of focus (DOF) which selebar2nya, can use apperture (aperture diaphragm) is as small as possible (large f number), for example F14, F16, f18, F22, f32, etc.. Of course, with increasingly smaller apperture, meaning the length of exposure.  Because of the limitations of the lens (which is not able to reach f32 and / or f64) or spot position where we stand do not support, a different approach can be used, namely the theory of hyper-focal areas of focus to get the "optimal" in accordance with our scene face. The core of the hyper-focal distance is to put the focus point in the right position to get the focus area which the widest possible so it will be sharply distinguished from the FG to the BG. With a wide DoF, due to the use and application of hyper-f/20 focal distance to determine focus.  Still by applying the hyper-focal to obtain a distinguished DoF widest  2. Use a tripod and cable release From # 1 above, as a result of increasingly wide DOF resulting in increasing length of exposure, a tripod for long exposure required to ensure that the resulting image sharp. Cable release will also be very helpful. If the camera has the facility to mirror-lock up, then the facility can also be used to avoid micro-mirrors shake a result of the jerking at the beginning.  3. Find the focal point or focus point The point of focus here is not the point where the focus of the camera is placed, but rather a point where the eye will first fixed (eye-contact) when viewing photos. Almost all of the photos are "good"has a focal point, or point of focus, or more often mistakenly called POI (Point of Interest). Actually just a landscape photography requires a focal point to draw the eye to stop right before the eyes begin to explore details of a photo. Focal point does not necessarily have to be a POI from a photograph. A photo without a focal point, will make the eyes "wandering" without time to stop, which resulted in loss of interest in sebah landscape. Such images are often called flat (Bland) only. Focal points can be a form of buildings (which, uniquely among small or empty plains), trees (which stand alone), stone (or a set of stone), the person or animal, or the silhouette shape kontrast with BG, and so on. Laying in which the focal point is also sometimes very influential, here the rules of "oldies" Rule of Third play. In the example photo below, the focal point is the umbrella org that red dress  Focal point in the example photo below is on the left side of boating  Focal point is on the sun and its reflections in the fields ..  Focal point is a farmer and buffalo.  4. Look for Foreground (FG) Foreground could be a focal point becomes even POI (Point of Interest) in your landscape photos. Therefore look for a strong FG. Sometimes a good FG define "success" or failure of a landscape photo, regardless of however dasyatnya the sky at that time. An object or pattern in the FG could create a "sense of scale" of our landscape photos.  Anything can be a powerful object in the FG, the boat, the grass to rock & starfish  5. Select the sky or land The sky is cloudy vibrant, especially during sunset or sunrise, will make us interesting pictures, but we still have to choose whether we will make our picture consists mostly of the sky by putting a little below the horizon, or most of the land by putting a little on the upper horizon . How good was the land and sky that we meet / encounter when taking pictures, split two equal parts between the dramatic sky and the land / FG would make an interesting photograph of a landscape becomes the focus, because both are equally good parts. Composition by using the principle of "oldies" Rule of the Third would be very helpful. Put the horizon line, in 1 / 3 the top if we want to emphasize (emphasize) its FG, or place the horizon at 1 / 3 bottom, if we want to emphasize the sky. Of course the law "Rule of Third" can be violated, if the offense actually strengthens the focal point and not vice versa. Also not always dead center is ugly .  Violation "Rule of Third" which lay far below the horizon, but instead strengthen the focal point   Photo left: Is this included in the Rule of the Third ... because the three elements, earth, mountains and sky, or just divide the two equal parts two equal parts that are considered only the earth and BG (mountains + sky)? Photo right: Whether it came under the Rule of the Third ... because there is shooting angle and composition are positioned horizontally across the stone from the top left to bottom right edge?   As mentioned above, the rule is sometimes made to be broken. All is fine, as long as we aim to get a focal point is reached. 6. Look for Lines / Lines / Pattern A line or pattern can make / become focal which will lead the eye to further explore your landscape photos. Sometimes leading lines or patterns that can even be a POI from the photo. Lines, can also provide a sense of scale or the image depth (depth of field). Line or pattern can be anything, a row of trees, shadow, line the road, ladder, lake / sea, etc.. Only by frequent hunting trips or photo, we'll get used to see the lines? Shape and pattern that is sometimes obscured or blend in with nature or the environment. Angle and composition can strengthen a leading lines or shapes that exist. Photo left: lines  7. Capture the moment & movement A photo Landcsape does not mean we only catch (capture) the heavens, the earth or the mountain, but all the elements of nature, be it stationary or moving like a waterfall, streams, pohon2 moving, the movement of clouds, etc., can make an interesting landscape photo . A photograph of a landscape do not have to portray a vast landscape, covering an extent, but a detailed isolation, either static or who object to dynamically move, it could become a subject of a photograph of a landscape. For that see # 13.  8. Working closely with nature or the weather A scene can be quickly changed. Therefore, to determine when the best time to photograph is very important. Sometimes the best opportunity to get the scene just when the weather is not sunny blue sky, but just when it will rain or storm or after a rain or storm, where the sky and the clouds will be very dramatic. In addition to patience in the "waiting" moments, in the setting of equipment readiness and foresight in the search for objects such as clouds and Focal Point, ROL (ray of light), rainbows, fog, etc..  9. Golden Hours & Blue hour In the normal color landscape photography, as is usually the best time around (before) sunset (sunset) or after sunrise (sunrise). Golden hour is the time, usually 1-2 hours before sunset (sunset) until 30 minutes before sunset, and 1-3 hours after sunrise, where the "golden light" or sunlight will make the golden color of the object. In addition, during the golden hours will also create a shadow on oject, be it a tree, or person to be lengthy and could be leading lines such as who is mentioned in # 6 above. If we take pictures during the golden hour has passed, or when the sun was blazing, usually the result will be flat or harsh lightingnya Because the sun was well above. This berlawananan with IR landscape photography who do not know the golden hours, where the best time just when the heat of the sun. Blue days are some of the time, usually up to 20-30 minutes after sunset (sunset), where the sun was tebenam, but the sky was not dark black. At this time the sky is blue. So it is not quite right, that at the time the sun had set and the sky was getting dark (our eyes), we immediately mengemas/beres2 gear / tripod us. It is precisely at this point we can get a great scene where the sky is blue and not black. Usually with long exposure, cloud (though if we see with the naked eye does not seem sdh) will still be clearly visible and gives texture to the blue sky. Sunrise  before Sunset  Golden Hours Blue Hours  10. Check Horizon Although these errors now easily can be corrected with image editor, but I still believe "get it right the first time" will be optimized. There are two last things before we press the shutter: - Is horizonya it is straight, there are several ways to get straight Horion when execution in the field, see # 12 - Is already on the horizon komposisikan well, see # 5 for the application of Rule of third. Regulation / rule is sometimes made to be broken, but if the scene that we will create is not strong enough (strong) his element, typically Rule of the Third will help make a better composition. Indeed, with croping later in image processing software, we can fix it. But if not with forced, is better at the time of execution we've put the horizon at the position should be.  Examples of the photo below is one of the photos I took of Dr. safe (save) to the position of the horizon at the time of execution. By Because I put it right in the middle horizon of course, with expectations at the time, I could do the cropping later on (either dicrop upper or lower).  11. Change viewpoint / angle / view you Sometimes we are stuck with the perspective or angle that we generally do, or maybe when we visit a place that we often see a picture either dimajalah or the FN website like this, we become "talkative" and taking pictures with the same angle. Many ways to get a fresh point of view. Not always "eye-level angle" (the normal position as we stand) in the photograph was the best. Try with high-angle (camera raised above the head), waist-level angle, low-level, etc., try different formats of horizontal and / or vertically. Or trying to find a spot or a different stand point or a different place, for example from the top of the tree (there is a senior photographer I know who likes to climb trees to get a different view, and the results are different and unique), or try to stand more ketepi ravine, or even lie on the ground ... of course with more priority to your own safety as a major factor and calculate the risks that may be obtained. One thing that must be understood, tried with different viewpoints do not always automatically the image we will be better or better, but so once you get better, is guaranteed to be different from the others. With frequent air-experiment with a variety of angles, over time you will instinctively trained while in the field to get not only a good angle, but also different.D'not take pictures over and over again at one point / spot. Try to shift A Few feet laterally or forward, or even walk away. Also occasionally try to turn round to look, Sometimes can get an interesting and different angle. 3-5 exposures / shots at one point and "move on, change spots, change orientation (landscape <-> portrait), look back, change lenses. Especially if you travel frequently, either to a place that is public or to a place that rarely visit the photographer. There are times when we are in a spot where the pictures from that location was the site of "million people" where hundreds or even thousands of photographers have photographed in the same spot and produce images that are similar or disparate thin. Use the photographs that you often see it as a reference, study and apply the technique and try to find something different. Make a difference. 
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14 Tips For Improving Your Landscape Photos
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Tuesday, June 14, 2011
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